PARIS – A friend of celebrities, followed by 8 million followers on Instagram, stylist Olivier Roasting has rocked the codes just as Jean-Paul Galtier did for a beautiful dress collection he unveiled on Wednesday evening.
At the age of 36, with more than 10 people as Balmain’s artistic director, he has transformed this French luxury home, known in a limited circle, into an unsolicited jet-set meeting place mixed with footballers and top models.
“Despite initial criticism, Olivier Rusting was able to express his Balmain views. He was the first to reach a million followers on Instagram, praising Kim Kardashian, who was not in the canon era of fashion. “, Analyzed by Serge Carrera, Lecturer in Sciences Po Paris
For this luxury expert, it’s about “capturing their popular tastes and sharing fashion dreams with as many people as possible” that brings him closer to Jean-Paul Galtier, who returned in January 2020 after 50 years in business.
From now on, the next one invites a young designer each season to collect a beautiful outfit for her: from Sakai to Japanese Chitos Abe, Y / Project’s Belgian Glenn Martens and now Olivia Rusting.
Hip-Hop and H&M
Fashion shows in hip hop rhythm, casting under the sign of diversity or collaborating with H&M in 2015: Olivier Rousteing has multiplied the steps to make the world of luxury understandable for young people and to “democratize” fashion.
Unlike most designers who cultivate prudence, she herself is a star: her presence flashes when she climbs the red carpet of ears with Cara Deliving in a white suit adorned with a golden brooch. Black Balmain or when she takes her place in the front row at the Schiaparelli fashion show in Paris on Monday.
She claims glamorous aesthetics for a strong and free woman: her embroidery and structured dress inspired Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni at the Balmain 10th Anniversary Show in September. He also defends a new, less rigid form of masculinity where the necklines and sequins are in order. “There will always be ‘antique’ men in the clich of masculinity, but there are also many men who want to get out of it,” he said in an interview with Liberation.
On the last day of the Haute Couture, which ends in Paris on Thursday, Olivia Rusting will unveil her first gender-neutral high jewelry collection for Balmain, “which reflects the bold and inclusive spirit of the historic fashion house.”
Breaking a ban
Olivier Rusting’s popularity, one of the few black or mixed-race designers in the world of luxury, took a turn after the 2019 broadcast of the documentary “Wonder Boy” (visible on Netflix), where she split the armor and described her search for her normal mother. . A young boy of Ethiopian and Somali descent, he was born under X and then adopted by a Bordeaux family.
Last fall, shortly after her anniversary ceremony, she posted a poignant picture on Instagram describing that her chimney had been severely burned in an explosion a year ago and hid it in a “shameful” environment where the “obsession of perfection” reigns. The text is accompanied by a spectacular photo: his torso, his arms and the top of his head are covered with a strip of gauze and he has burn marks on his face.
A way to break a taboo. “I understand that the power of social media is only to express what you want to show,” he wrote at the time. “There’s a generational dimension to his talking about his life, even his intimate moments,” Serge underlined Carrera, whose purpose is to “tell the source of his promise.” (AFP)